Sunday, 12 August 2012

Kazakhstan, Kazakhstan You Very Nice Place III


Шымкент до Алматы  Skymkent to Almaty 06.08-07.08

As mentioned, everything went swimmingly up until about 40 minutes before the train back to Almaty. I had been in contact with Aleks and knew he was on the way back from Turkistan in the afternoon, but I guess there was some heavy police presence on the highway which made driving very slow. So, it became obvious he wouldn’t make it in time for the train. We tried planning out the next few stops and schedule so he could try to hire a taxi to race out to one of them, but that didn’t really pan out or simply seem reasonable. Instead, he hopped on a bus and took it back to Almaty.

Now, if a platzkart can be uncomfortable, a bus for 15 hours without having showered for a full day or so and having spent that day in Turkistan where the average daily summer temperature is about 45-50 degrees Centigrade… I suppose you get the point. However, he dutifully made it to Almaty and met us at Tam’s flat where we had time to shower and he did not.

The train ride itself went smoothly and I slept for most of it while holding onto a bar so I wouldn’t roll off my bunk. It worked and I was well rested. We arrived in Almaty around 08:00 on August 7th before heading to Tam’s place where we rendezvoused with Aleks. From there, we headed to the bus station, said our goodbyes to the girls, thanked them for their wonderful hospitality, and headed to a café for a final lunch of lagman noodles in Almaty. Afterwards, Aleks and I grabbed a marshrutka back to Bishkek.

On the markshrutka, we made friends with a Russian from the Sochi region who was heading to Kyrgyzstan for mountain climbing with friends. We also met two Uighur women heading home to Bishkek and others on the marshrutka – as I said, everyone wants to know you and why you are in this part of the world. When they find out you speak Russia, this only encourages them to converse with you and usually leads to memorable conversations and meetings.

The border process took about 15 minutes without any issues except for the confused Kazakh border officer who asked us why we didn’t have another Kazakh visa. We told her we would not be coming back…. Her reply: why don’t we want to come back? It was a good laugh in a place known for tension and stress and others in line shared in it. Good fortune is bestowed upon Canadians in the most foreign of places…

We arrived in Bishkek in the afternoon and our Russian friend accompanied us home for a short visit before heading off to meet his hiking companions. I went out to dinner with another friend and wrapped up the evening overlooking the sunset in the mountains on a balcony at a pizza restaurant.

Our time in Kazakhstan was relaxing, rewarding, insightful, full of generosity; and of course, checkered with uncountable new friends, encounters, and conversations with people you will likely never see again.

On the whole, Kazakhstan…. You very nice place.

My bunk.


Platzkart bunks.


Border.


1 comment:

  1. Man, great trip! And awesome pictures. Glad to hear your trip to Central Asia has been as awesome as it has. Looking forward to catching up soon. Enjoy the rest of your trip, C-man!

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